In South Africa, not all fast fashion is evil

Or rather sustainability is always going to be complicated.

Can fast fashion ever be sustainable? What if sometimes the answer isn’t a resounding ‘no’ but an unsure ‘maybe’ with several asterisks and footnotes.

I went to a fashion last month which really reminded me that when you want to meaningfully discuss sustainable fashion, context is everything. Like, how in South Africa, not all fast fashion is automatically bad.

The show was for Pick n Pay Clothing's Futurewear project which is in collaboration with Thando Ntuli, the designer behind local label Munkus, and Kiav.

I've spoken before about the devastating effects of cheap imports and international fast fashion brands on our local clothing and textile industry, which is why I usually like to encourage people to at least go domestic if they have to shop fast fashion.

What’s ironic is that we have the slime, destructive business models of Zara, H&M and Shein to thank for South African retailers finally getting their act together. Even if that act is just trying to compete with the multinational corporations.

Sustainability is really complicated and part of why it’s so difficult to sway people over is the misconception that it’s all about altruistic sacrifice and disciplined restraint. There are many (many) annoying people who make it seem like if you can’t complete an impossible checklist of natural fabrics, transparent supply chains, impeccable labour conditions, and circular design, then you might as well not try at all.

Never mind the fact that you could take the best care of a polyester dress so it avoids landfills for as long as possible, or that you could get a 100% silk dress you won’t know to dry clean and then ruin beyond repair, or that most of the industry is still very far from large scale recyclable clothing.

I bring this up because I think it’s always worthwhile to be at least 1% better than it is to be 100% perfect. The Pick n Pay Clothing collection is another instance of South African fashion retailers having the most power and agency to make impactful changes.

It’s not like there are hundreds of organisations and institutions leaping to provide emerging and young designers with platforms, training, and distribution. Is it still a little weird that Mr Price sponsors South African Fashion Week’s young designer competition when that platform is all about sustainability? Yes, but at least Mr Price is doing something.

And it doesn’t just end at design competitions and creative collaborations. TFG has been steadily investing in local factories since 2012, committing over R75 million to an endeavour that’s revived manufacturing and brought back valuable jobs and skills we were losing. They’re at least sourcing 35% of their garments locally. Truworths is at 45% South African made textiles with plans to reach 50% in a the next few years.

Mr Price has been with working with several local textile clusters and organisations to provide loans to KZN-based factories, and they’re even working with local recycling and upcycling groups to produce some of their homeware. According to their sustainability report, 2023 saw them purchase 106.8 million units from local suppliers from 78.6 million in 2022. Their locally grown cotton is all certified by the Better Cotton Initiative and Cotton SA.

Now, I don’t always live in a dream world. I know these are corporations and I know they’re still aiming for maximum profit. TFG’s able to produce over 6 million items a year, and their local factories means they’ve brought their assembly time down from 48 days to just 4. It’s all about quickly made clothing in huge quantities at the lowest prices.

There isn’t a way to sustainably produce fast fashion. We know. I don’t think anyone can figure out a way to price so low, produce so quickly, and still pay workers well and ensure quality at every stage. And these are definitely things we have to continue to demand but because we live in a society, there are short-term concessions we have to make.

There are less carbon emissions when you’re only shipping a product across provincial lines as opposed to around the world for instance. The Futurewear collection is made from recycled polyester and viscose (a semi-synthetic fibre) which is marginally better than virgin polyester. Also socially and culturally, it’s good for South African and Eswatini workers to have these jobs to rely upon—especially since most retailers have avoided South African production for so long because we have pretty decent trade unions and labour protections (well, at least compared to places like China and Bangladesh).

Ultimately, the best thing is always to not buy at all but, hey, if someone had to break into your house tonight, set fire to your wardrobe and drain all of your bank accounts so that you’re only left with R1000.00, I hope you’ll still leave Shein alone for the love of god.

You know you love me xoxo

Khensani